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Five flavours: Day 5 Hue to Hoi An
Soundtrack: “Sharp Dressed Man”, ZZ Top This should be a short post today, as we didn’t really do much. I don’t really plan these posts, just open up the laptop and words fall onto the screen, so there’s no guarantee that I won’t end up with several thousand words about today. Though I really do doubt it. Last breakfast of Hue hotel soup and assorted buffet bits. If only I had the time, energy and skill, I could really get used to that Hue soup for breakfast, the meaty stock, lots of lemongrass flavour, and a hint of chilli. I won’t be surprised if I do lots of cooking with…
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Five flavours: Day 4 Hue
Soundtrack: “The Lovecats”, The Cure Five flavours: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, spicy. I must admit that over the last few years bitter and sour had become almost synonymous for me, thanks to flavours like bitter lemon, I’ve been using bitter to mean sour, and sour to mean bitter. Call it getting old and lazy. So I went back and looked it up: lemon juice/citrus is sour, coffee is bitter. Sour is related to acidity, bitter is more about the other chemistry. It gets confusing with things like beer: beer is acidic, but with the addition of hops it’s bitter. Lemon juice is sour, but lemon rind is bitter. A whisky…
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Five flavours: Day 3 Hue
Soundtrack: “Khe Sanh”, Cold Chisel Today I’d booked us into a tour of a number of significant sites relating to Viet Nam history, reunification, and of course the American War. L isn’t a fan of war tourism in general, and while I wasn’t looking for some sort of huge glorification, I’m fascinated by significant places of all stripes, and with Hue being so close to the former Khe Sanh AFB, it seemed an opportunity I couldn’t pass up. After another hotel breakfast of soup, ca phe sua dau, and assorted other bites, our guide H met us in the hotel lobby. Once the group of 5 tourists were all in…
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Five flavours: Day 2 Hue
Soundtrack: “Umbrella”, Rhianna Hue. The ancient capital of Viet Nam, full of history and royal tombs, ruined citadels. The scene of some of the worst conflict during the Tet Offensive during the American War (see previous ruined citadels). We toured a lot of that history back in 2014, so this visit is mostly just seeing modern Hue, eating the food, and relaxing knowing we are far from our day jobs. Despite being quite tired from yesterday’s expedition, we were awake fairly early, early enough to catch the hotel breakfast before it entered its death throes. This hotel does a fairly decent breakfast spread: as with all hotel buffets there are…
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Five flavours: Day 1 Perth – Hue
Soundtrack: VietJet boarding music Frequent readers (all 3 of you) can skip this paragraph. It was the same old story, even though I was packed and ready, and it was a mid-morning flight that didn’t need a 3am alarm, I still slept badly and woke up far too early. I’m beginning to think that even if I booked an afternoon or evening departure my body alarm would still kick me up hours before my phone has the chance to say, “Smile! You’re travelling!” We’re flying VietJet this time, even though I basically swore never to fly with them again after the last time (https://www.slowlyandloudly.com/2024/01/08/viet-nam-the-fourth-day-12-hoi-an-transit/) the fare price we got was…
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Day 6 – Hue
Hue. Pronounced Hway. As in the sound a sleep deprived traveller makes when stepping off a train into bright light, holding a backpack, trying to balance. Hue. Hue’s schtick is that it’s an old and cultural city, the capital from 1803-1945 or thereabouts, home to 3 loved kings, 1 hated one, and 9 others who generally seem to have been treated with a mixture of reverent indifference. It’s a bit of a weird city, trying to figure out the whole narrative — there’s a lot of emphasis on the damage to the city from the American and French Wars (and always the damage caused by the invaders, not the local…
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Day 5, Halong Bay to Hue (the longest day)
It’s good to be writing this from a mostly comfy hotel bed (I probably haven’t mentioned they like hard beds over here) in airconditioned comfort, as this day was a killer. Woke up in time for breakfast on the boat in Halong Bay, followed by a short demonstration on vegetable carving. The chef does an impressive trick making a fish net out of a carrot. We then toodled back to the shore, hopped off the boat into the waiting bus for the long drive back to Hanoi. There’s only dual carrigeway for part of the route, the rest is just a lane each way and all the trucks, cars, buses…
