In which driving is done, a ferry is caught, whisky is drunk, purchases are made; also introducing Margaret the supergrass. Following a fairly decent breakfast at the Oyster Inn, we headed south, first to fill up with fuel and then to get cash, as, according to guides to Feis Ile, it isn’t unknown for electronic banking to fail, and ATMs to run out of money around this time. Then south we went. Time was on our side, so we had the opportunity to stop for a coffee in Tarbert, a little town by the sea (tarbert/tarbet translates as isthmus, so there are several scattered throughout Scotland). First was a coffee…