Visions of China: Wuhan first impressions

China is a magnificent, ancient, land of culture. I am, if nothing else, maybe slightly above the average base grade western barbarian tourist. I don’t speak the local lingo, save for a handful of words (thank you, hello, pork dumplings, fire water/Chinese ‘Whisky’) and can read nothing in Chinese script. So I’m obviously prepared.

The good news is that L and I are going to Wuhan, one of the older and more civilised Chinese cities, proudly promoting a long history of Chinese defiance (gave the Japanese as good as they got, and were a KMT stronghold for a number of years). It’s also not really a tourist town and boasts better air uality than Beijing (though as I type I can’t see the far side of the bridge from our hotel room).

The reason is for L’s brother’s third and final wedding to L2, we’ve had the registry and Aussie celebrations, now it’s the big fat Chinese wedding (this will get a post of its own). And why this barbarian is spending 5 days in China and not seeing any of the great tourist sights: no Great Wall, no Tianamen Square, Three Gorges Dam, dragon-teeth mountains, etc. Next time we’re here, maybe.

First impressions of China are that it’s a funny kind of place, behind the veil of communist state bureaucracy lie all the usual tourism suspects: dodgy taxi drivers, big western hotel chains, monks trying the old gift for money scam. From what I can see, Wuhan International airport has no ATMs, so arrive with cash (I didn’t). Fortunately some budding con artist taxi driver (a tautology, I know) offered to take me to the domestic terminal for the ATM and then drive me to the hotel, fortunately I had some instructions from L2 in Chinese on how to get there the driver could read. The language barrier is interesting, the locals are happy to talk to you even once it’s clear you have no words in common. This driver didn’t understand the word “meter”, which I figured was a bad sign, but from experience I figured once we got to the hotel I’d have a chance to bargain, guessing that when confronted by staff from big chain hotel driver might not have as much leeway. Turned out okay, got away with paying 150RMB, probably a little over normal but given he started at 280, I’m not fussed (FYI ver roughly 5RMB=1AUD).

Staying at the Westin, a big foyer with a huge chandelier, offering all the usual services including 101 hidden charges (only one free breakfast per room, not per guest — wtf?) and they’ll take a “deposit” of 8000RMB against “incidentals”. Prices overall are Perth cafe-level, so a bit expensive but not bad for a luxury chain.

Did all the check in and unpack then went for a wander. Wuhan is an interesting city of marked extremes, 1-2 blocks from our hotel people are living in sea-containers, some 5 containers high. I don’t know if this is temporary housing for construction workers, as there’s a lot of building going on, or something a little more permanent. The people seem happy enough, lots of children wanting to practice English by saying “Hello!” to me as I passed. I stand out a bit here, being maybe a foot taller than most, and my red hair. I’ve noticed a few stares, nothing sinister, just curious.

Scanned the local area for essentials: laundromat (found one that had a bunch of purple washing machines); a supermarket that was full of market stalls selling veggies, fruit, durian, as well as every imaginable part of ducks and chickens; and a place called “Rat Pharmacy”. I crossed a big road, feeling quite proud of this achievement, until I saw the lights had green and red men for instruction (I’m led to believe this is just a suggestion).

Found a “Beauty Farm” and figured I could try a massage, after a bit of walking and a touch of cramp in my calf. Place looked legit, and at 480RMB definitely cheaper than the hotel (680RMB for an hour). Was given a pair of Captain America-type shorts, blue with white stars all over, and masseuse hoped these would be large enough for my barbarian form. Fit okay, a little tight. Massage was good, though a little hard (not knowing the chinese for ‘softly’ meant I had to make do with squealing and squirming). Had a slight issue paying, it seems VISA cards aren’t really popular around here.

Dined at the hotel buffet with the rest of the Aus contingent: food okay, but Chinese seem to have differing ideas of serving temperatures, so I’m surprised I haven’t been hit by any bugs from the various cold and luke-warm dishes.

Then the boys met to go over the schedule for the wedding: Chinese weddings have various additional activities, hence the briefing. G cracked open a bottle of bai-jo (Chinese ‘whisky’), a fairly potent 42% clear brew that tasted weirdly spiced and floral and alcoholic and burned all the way down. Also had a can of warm Pabst, and think it was this that gave me the headache the next day.