Day 8 Sahara – Skoura

Survived our night out in a Berber tent undder the stars — it only had a single layer of blanket for the roof so we could see stars through. The bed had at least 8 blankets on it, which made it warm but very heavy. L described it as having the cat asleep on you, but on every part of you. The bed was also quite hard, with contours in odd places. so overall it wasn’t the greatest night’s sleep I’ve ever had. On the other hand, annd more importantly, we were camping out overnight in the Sahara, no phones, internet access or electricity, just us, our Berber guides, and the camels.

We were up before dawn, taking pictures of the sun rising over the dunes, before mounting up and heading back to the Kasbah. I felt brave enough to take some pictures while atop Ouday, who seemed none too pleased about all the tagine I’d eaten the night before, and managed a couple of times to do a crafty lurch as I was getting ready to take a picture — when I was only holding on with one hand. As camels go, Ouday seemed to be a fairly swell chap.

A quick breakfast and shower and it was back on the road, where we picked up some fossils at Erfoud (not  as many as we’d hoped, but I got my trilobite). Then it was goodbye to our guide before heading back on the road.

Cue more stunning Moroccan countryside. How one country can be so diverse is astounding. Incredible plains ringed by distant hills, and as the hills  get closer there are amazing gorges. We took a tour of the Todra Gorge, an amazing crack in the mountains with a cool, fresh streem running through. Never underestimate water: it sank the Titanic; and at the gorge one small stream has created a stunning formation. (I was tempted to see what it would do to the small, annoying group of local lads hitting us up for money, but didn’t.) The drive to and from the gorge involves some incredibly stunning views, many are the sort that one only gets while haning on, hoping that one’s driver knows exactly where the edge of the road is as he overtakes a bus. Cyclists and little mopeds were also somewhat annoying today, and we almost hit a couple with the wing mirror. Again Abdul took it calmly with a little beep on the horn, where any Perth driver would have had some choice 4 letter words to say.

Lunch was at another of Abdul’s picks, and this one was surprisingly good. Moroccan soup (in these parts a vegetable and herb broth, not very spicy) and a tagine of chicken and vegetables (strangely no olives). Condiments included olive oil and a spicy, citrusy harissa. Good food and not too expensive. The Moroccan tea in these parts, that I’ve been drinking for the last few days, has been the winter version, where some or all of the mint has been replaced by wormwood. An interesting flavour, not unpleasant, but I really do like the mint.

Then it was a drive to the valley of the  roses, mostly driving alongside the High Atlas Mountains. These amazing, snow covered peaks get up around 4000 metres, and rise up out of the plain like a great wall. Hopefully tomorrow we’ll be driving through them, I’m really looking forward to that.

The roses were a bit of a letdown, rather than every sort of rose product imaginable the choice was narrow, there were not many rose plants to be seen (even though it’s out of season for the flowers, I got the impression L would have loved to see acres and acres of rose plants).

Tonight we’re staying at an amazing place in Skoura. Double storey hay and mud construction, massive bedroom with its own terrace — with a view of the High Atlas — as well as a shared terrace (with a naughty, hungry and friendly dog), absolutely stunning all round. There’s also a reverse cycle heating and an open fireplace. It feels more African that our other lodgings, which have been middle eastern, so while this place has middle eastern fittings, the mud walls and log and bamboo ceiling seem more African. One drawback of the impressive hay and mud adobe walls is the lack of wi-fi in the rooms. The signal just doesn’t penetrate, apparently, so all internet is done on the terraces. This is not a bad thing, except it’s a little cold out.

The dinner here was a-mazing. Started with orange and carrot soup, strange but it worked really well.next was a selection of aubergine, courgette and beetroot, all with wonderful herbs and spices. Then a wonderful beef tagine, with potato and quince. The beef was really good, the quince okay (L loved it). Then dessert: chocolate mousse. Mmmmmmmmmm. Mmmmmmmmmm.

We’ve had a very social day, meeting up with a family from Brisbane at the gorge and then finding out they’re also staying at the same place tonight. Also an English couple with their young son, touring around the opposite way to us. So we’re not the only tourists in Morocco.