• 2019 | mambo de la luna,  camaguey,  cuba,  santiago de cuba,  so central america

    Day 7: Mambo de la Luna, Santiago de Cuba to Camaguey

    Cuba, like many nations, could use a good highway system for the 1000km from Santiago to Havana. Maybe one day, if a method of recycling plastic drink bottles into roads pans out, as there is plenty of the former and less of the latter. They have a plan, and the first few kilometres out of Santiago de Cuba is a generally solid six-lane highway, but after a while it generally turns into a Scottish B road or WA country highway, one fairly narrow lane each way. Only with horses and bicycles. Cuba is, I’m told, possibly the only carbon neutral country in the world, and they achieve this partly through…

  • 2019 | mambo de la luna,  cuba,  santiago de cuba,  so central america

    Day 5-6: Mambo de la Luna, Santiago de Cuba

    Sitting on a rooftop dining area, the scene of possibly my best cuban meal so far, condensing two days into one in the hope I’ll get all caught up. It’s not that the days are blurring together, but right now, on the other side of the International Date Line, I really have no idea what day it is, and time is certainly flying by. Yesterday started with the last minute packing, the usual breakfast of coffee, omelette, juice and fresh fruit, and then we were on the road to the airport. While Cuban traffic can be a little chaotic, with random roadworks, and horse drawn carts to dodge, I’m yet…

  • 2019 | mambo de la luna,  cuba,  havana,  so central america

    Mambo de la Luna Day 4+: Havana still

    Today was the big Havana tour day, taking in the old and the new cuidad. The old cuidad is UNESCO recognised, free from cars, and quite beautiful in an under restoration kind of way. So after meeting our trusty Beberli, it was off to stroll around basically where I’ve strolled around for the last couple of days, but this time with someone to explain what I’ve been seeing. I could go into great detail boring you about all the things about the history of Havana, but suggest you’re better off reading Wikipedia or something. Basically, in very condensed form, Havana is a semi-strategic isthmus with water on three sides, making…

  • 2019 | mambo de la luna,  cuba,  havana,  so central america

    Mambo de la Luna Day 3+: Havana still

    Today the tour started. Part of the deal for transiting through the US was the requirement to show that my time in Cuba was to support the Cuban people, i.e. getting out each day with an itinerary and not just sipping mojitos in a resort. Today’s mission involved a tour of the Havana Club rum museum, just around the corner from our Casa. So we met our guide for the tour, Beberli, and went for a walk. Cuba and rum go back a long way, as the first things the european colonists did was wipe out the local indigenous population, chop down the trees, and plant sugarcane. As with all…

  • 2019 | mambo de la luna,  cuba,  havana,  so central america

    Mambo de la Luna: day 2+, Habana

    I think it’s technically day 4, but I get confused from all the crossing of date lines, and with my body clock otherwise a bit messed around. My phone thinks it’s Saturday 6 July, my laptop thinks it’s Sunday 7 July, and my brain thinks that it’s hard to be in Havana and not drink. But before I get to today, I should probably cover yesterday, but not the way the band at the lunch restaurant covered “Yesterday”. The ultra long haul Singapore to Ewok, sorry, Newark (airport code EWK) was overall pretty good. I made sure to drink lots of water, so I hit the ground well hydrated if…

  • 2019 | mambo de la luna,  asia,  new jersey,  north america,  singapore,  transit

    Mambo de la luna: Day 1+, the longest day

    I’m a little bit north of the Aleutian Islands, a little south of the Bering Strait, the International Date Line is possibly somewhere below me, and am just over halfway through the longest flight of my life. And not just my life, many lives, as I’m on what is currently the longest non-stop commercial flight in the world, heading from Singapore to Newark, approximately 16,700 km. It’s been a while between trips, and without going into it, between KL and now I have just been working far too hard. This is just to put things in perspective: I’m way out of practice at putting my thoughts into words, so apologies…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day last: KUL to PER

    Woke up far too early after far too little sleep. It takes a special person to get a good night’s sleep when they have an early morning flight, and I ain’t that person. Checked out of the hotel, and again my grab code to sentral station didn’t work so I didn’t need to go with that option, and it was only 8MYR or so anyway. The awesome thing with flying Malaysia Airlines is that I could check in to my flight at Sentral station, dropping my suitcase, getting my boarding pass, and being able to skip all that once the KLIA express took me to the airport. Then it was…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 7: KL, in a day

    Today was the catchup, touristy day, where I tried to cram in just about as many of the KL landmarks that I could. While I’ve been enjoying my time in KL, I’ve generally missed most of the postcard places, and with only one day left it was time to fill in some gaps. First stop of the day (after breakfast, a dosa with condiments at a random streetside eatery) was the Batu caves just north of KL, and by just north I mean these are about 20 minutes’ drive in early morning traffic. The Batu caves are a big Hindi thing, there’s the postcard huge statue of the god of…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 6: KL, sticking to it

    Today was a fairly solid reversal of fortune compared to yesterday. I decided not to overextend myself and to check out a few more places local, and on the whole it paid off. I kicked off with doing my laundry, by which I mean going to where I got my last clothes washed, finding them closed, and walking across the road to a different, less swanky place. These folks charged me 10MYR, and told me to come back in a couple of hours. Having been quite haphazard in my eating patterns, I decided to make a concerted effort today to eat 3 meals, and to be approximately regular in doing…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 5: Of markets and malls

    Today was a day of shopping fails. Today, I have to say, I hate the shopping in KL. Remember yesterday’s coffeeshop power outage? Turns out this got me twice, as the laundry I dropped off yesterday wasn’t ready due to the same power issues. And while we’re talking about power issues, I discovered my room’s mini-fridge didn’t work, forcing me to sadly throw out the cooking class leftovers as they were at the wrong temperature for who knows how long. I headed out this morning for the Amcorp mall flea market, a place where all manner of weird and wonderful trinkets and knick knacks and second hand things and gifts…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 4: KL, All about the food

    I know every day, heck, the biggest reason I’m here in KL is the food, but today was all about food. If you ignore the minutes I spent organising my laundry (15MYR/kg, the most expensive I’ve encountered in SE Asia, but I just went with the nearest without shopping around) literally everything I did today was about the food. In planning this trip, I was looking at doing a cooking class, but was a little put off at some of the prices, upwards of 300MYR, which in perspective is two nights in my hotel, or all the streetfood I could ever possibly eat here. So I baulked, until L prodded…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 3: Little India and a lot of walking

    Sometimes I really suck at this travelling thing. Those who’ve travelled with me will know that I can be prone to indecision when it comes to picking a place to eat, so that a small hunger pang can often be a tired and hangry by the time I do find somewhere that’s just right. And I’m only marginally picky: I usually want somewhere that isn’t a chain or franchise, is serving a local cuisine, and looks like it won’t give me some sort of internal upset. This morning I ended up walking way too far, got way too hangry, and missed breakfast entirely. I did discover a bunch of interesting…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 2: KL, Chinatown and other markets

    Dear diary, today I walked and ate. And walked and ate. And walked. And ate. Though, in comparison to what I’ve previously been guilty of putting in my mouth, I took it fairly easy today. After my customary first night away from home that takes forever to get to sleep (I’ve been trained to wait for the cat to get comfortable, so when there’s no cat, I just wait…) as well as the room being a little less effective at keeping the outside light and sound out, I woke up a little meh. Probably also from sleeping in aircon, in a different bed, wth different pillows, you know, all the…

  • 2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia

    Day 1: Kuala Lumpur, Bukit Bintang and surrounds

    Some travelling days end too soon. Other days find me frequently repeating the Henry Rollins’ mantra, “Smile, you’re travelling”. Today was a fair whack of the latter, and a hint of the former. The plane got in early, and I spent the flight with a row to myself but even with that space I didn’t sleep comfortably. I tried lulling myself into a state of rest listening to Natalie Imbruglia’s Male, which has some really good cover versions (but I’m still not sold on the c&w “Friday I’m In Love”, I think she either needed to go much bigger or back the hell away) but even with this I don’t…

  • @home,  2018 | kuala lumpur,  asia,  kuala lumpur,  malaysia,  preparation,  transit

    Day 0: PER to KUL

    The tired and grumpy baby edition. And that’s not referring to the grumpy and tired baby waiting to board behind me, heck I sympathise entirely. It’s way past everyone’s bedtime, and who at Malaysia Airlines decided that 2.10am was a reasonable time to fly? I’m talking about the muppet waiting next to me, who has his mobile volume turned up and all the sounds trned on. I’m getting every beep, whorp, woowoo, and ding, and in my rather tired state not enjoying the soundtrack at all. I may not have documented this previously, but consider this a new pet peeve: just turn that shit off. I’m killing time, waiting to…